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TAKE ONE
Michael’s: A jewel in Niagara Falls’ Little Italy
By Vicki G. Marshall and Margaret M. Toohey; photos by kc kratt
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Michael’s is known for its pasta and sauce.
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Michael’s is well known for its beans and greens soup
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... as well as hearty salads and pasta dishes.
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Michael’s Restaurant sits right under the arch that stretches across the beginning, or the end (depending on your direction), of Pine Avenue in Niagara Falls. Since 1960 this Italian-American institution has been serving a variety of nearly all the Italian comfort foods one could ever want or need, with huge portions at very reasonable prices. We had eaten there many times and always been more than satisfied, and a recent visit proved to be no exception. There are no tables at Michael’s; everyone sits in a booth, and the service from the friendly and efficient staff is excellent. When we were there on a recent Tuesday evening, not one booth was empty for more than a minute.
Michael’s always has a specials board: notable that evening was cavatelli with meatballs and a salad for $10.95. Reasonable indeed. On the regular menu, Michael’s offers an extensive menu of Italian and American entrees, along with football-sized calzones (deep-fried and stuffed with mozzarella and ricotta cheeses), pizza, wings, sandwiches, club sandwiches, a children’s menu, and breakfast (served until 4 p.m.). Everything is available for take-out and there are specials for lunch as well. The portions here are exceedingly generous and the combinations available by adding salad, potatoes, or macaroni to any sandwich or entrée allow for endless varieties. For example, a humble fried egg sandwich is $2.50; with a salad and potato it’s $6.90. Liver and onions are $9.25 including salad and potato, but you can substitute macaroni for the potato and add $1.50. Most entrees are also available as side or half orders. This is a lot of good food in a myriad of combinations for not very much money.
Even though we had such a huge choice of combinations, we pretty much knew in advance what we wanted. For Vicki it had to include an order of the beans and greens soup. She has eaten this variety of soup in many different restaurants but none can compare to Michael’s. This dish is packed with beans and greens (Swiss chard or escarole, or both) in a chicken broth with cheesemore like a stew, and a meal in itself with bread and butter. After the soup Vicki ordered the small lettuce and tomato salad with rolled mozzarella and house dressing and a half order of gnocchi. Margy chose the same salad and an order of the “homemade macaroni”baked Parmesan-style for an extra $2.50.
Vicki’s gnocchi in the house sauce were excellent, little balls of dense pasta smothered in sauce, the half order served as the next day’s dinner. Margy’s macaroni was actually made just down the street at Latina Importing Co. and was a very large bowl of pasta. Michael’s places the macaroni at the bottom, covered with cheese, with the sauce on top. A near perfect dish, and Margy barely made a dent in it. As for the sauce at Michael’s, both Foodies rate it as excellent: Thick, not too sweet or too acidic, it’s available for take out at $4.50 a quart. Michael’s also offers wine, beer, and desserts. We were tempted to try the crispy brown fried dough, topped with granulated or confectioner’s sugar for $5.50, but were too full to make the attempt. Another timeand, of course, there will be many more times.
Michael's
3011 Pine Ave., Niagara Falls
282-4043, www.michaelsrestaurant.com
Vicki G. Marshall is a graphic designer. Margaret M. Toohey is CEO and owner of the Lewiston Insurance Agency.
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