TAKE ONE Gauchos, grilled meats, and ambiance galore By Vicki G. Marshall and Margaret M. Toohey; photos by kc kratt Brasa Brazilian Steakhouse is known for its fire-roasted meats, as well as its bar and wine selection. The Foodies, along with Margy’s husband Tim, spent a delightful evening in Niagara Falls, Ontario, at the newly opened (as of August 2009) Brasa, a Brazilian steakhouse in the new Hilton Hotel Niagara Falls/Fallsview Casino. With its claim to being the tallest hotel in all of Canada and its AAA 4-Diamond rating, the Hilton is definitely a lodging standout in the greater Niagara region, so we were interested to find out if the dining experience really justified all four of those diamonds. Ah, the phenomenon of the Brazilian steakhouse! No matter if it’s in Washington, D.C., Las Vegas, or Brasilia, the formula for these restaurants is the same with only minor variations. Based on the centuries-old tradition of gaucho-style grilling over an open range, the slow-cooked meat—churrasco—bastes in its own juices, resulting in tender, flavorful steak. Traditionally, young boys would learn the art of cooking this way from their fathers, the caretakers of this culinary tradition, who pass it down from generation to generation. The three of us had been to other Brazilian steakhouses in the Falls and D.C.; Brasa’s food, ambiance, and service were far above those. This is a very expansive restaurant; it seats 375 and, according to our server, is booked to capacity on Saturdays. However, because of the layout, the noise level is very low and there is no feeling of crowding. Brasa is also quite elegant, with dark burgundy walls, a large bar and separate wine section, comfortable chairs, crisp linens, and impeccable service. The concept of the Brazilian steakhouse is somewhat like a floating buffet, only the buffet floats by your table served by young gauchos carrying very large skewers of grilled meats. The diner controls the pace of the meal by using the two-sided disk that signals the gauchos to bring the skewers of meat to the table, green for “yes” and red for “not now.” The rest of the meal consists of the salad bar, filled with a great variety of cold salads, grilled vegetables, relishes, olives, smoked salmon, and some hot vegetables and fish that you serve yourself as often as you want. At the cost of $45 Canadian per person and $9 for a glass of excellent wine, you won’t go there twice a week, but compared to the a la carte totals at comparable establishments, the expenditure is not unreasonable. The centerpiece of your meal is, of course, the fire-roasted meat. Grill master Ricardo Zanora, a Brazil native, explained to us how he was recruited in his homeland to come to Canada and readily agreed, with one catch: that he could bring along several young men from Brazil whom he had worked with and trained in the art of churrasco. Zanora himself often serves the meats while one of the other gauchos takes a turn at being the grill master. The night of our visit we had our choice of eleven meats—including chicken legs, chicken breasts wrapped in bacon, salmon, and pork sausage—along with skewers of pineapple. We were really there for the meat, and we had our choice of beef short ribs, leg of lamb, top sirloin, rump roast, rib eye, rump steak with garlic, and bottom sirloin. All were expertly grilled and accompanied on the plate by the signature seasonings Brazilians sprinkle over their beef. (The sausage was also excellent.) After a while we began to forget which ones were our favorites because the tastes began to meld together, but we do know that the rib eye, bottom sirloin, and rump roast were all excellent. The pineapple was hot and juicy, spiced with cinnamon and brown sugar and ready to melt in our mouths. We also enjoyed the accompanying corn bread and polenta. Desserts are not included in the $45 cost of the meal, but one of us tried the Brazilian flan and rated it quite good. Noting that the full name of the restaurant is “Brasa Brazilian Steakhouse & Winebar,” we were given a quick tour of the cozy space adjacent to the main dining room where the selection of wines includes Argentina, Chile, and New Zealand, as well as California and Canada. The regular bar off the dining area features rich, dark colors and a romantic feel. The pleasant hostess on duty told us that a small combo provides weekend entertainment, drawing guests from the hotel, the surrounding area, and, on occasion, a gambler on a break from the casinos. Never having been to Brazil, the Foodies cannot vouch for Brasa’s authenticity, but we thoroughly enjoyed the food and the atmosphere on their own terms and would definitely return. Reservations are recommended most nights and a must on Saturdays. Brasa Brazilian Steakhouse 6361 Fallsview Blvd., Niagara Falls, Ontario 905-353-7187, www.brasaniagara.com Vicki G. Marshall is a graphic designer. Margaret M. Toohey is CEO and owner of the Lewiston Insurance Agency. SUBSCRIBE NOW Back to the Table of Contents Back to Top