 |
Two scenic routes in opposite directions
By Elizabeth Licata
It only takes an hour in a car to get to some of the region’s most fascinating destinations via routes that are studded with rural scenery, quaint villages, parks, and natural preserves. For these trips, the journey is the thing; what you see along the road and where you stop on the way matter as much as your final destination.
Rare birds and prehistoric cobblestones
For a northeastern excursion, the historic cobblestone buildings lining route 104 along Lake Ontario are a perfect goal. From Buffalo, it’s probably easiest to take 90 E to the Pembroke/Route 77 exit; from there, 77 N turns into 63 N and eventually reaches 104. Take a right, and the cobblestone structures soon begin to appear.
The drive along 77/63 is rich in hiking and nature-viewing possibilities. You’ll be tempted to jog a bit south to Akron Falls Park, but keep going north to reach the Iroquois National Wildlife Preserve. We used to call this the Alabama swamps (and many of you probably still do). Back then, we just thought of it as a place to go maybe once a year to see thousands of loudly honking geese on their way to or from their migration destination. You can still see those multitudes in the early spring or fall, but it’s even more interesting—and quieter—to try a hike along the trails in the preserve during the geese’s offseason. You’ll see many other bird species as well as wildflowers, spooky swamps, and other living creatures like (harmless) snakes, salamanders, and toads. It’s also incredibly quiet on the trails—a true meditative environment—with the scent of fresh foliage rather than incense. On an early spring walk, it seemed as though I was surrounded by a gentle green mist; the understory was just beginning to leaf out.
As you continue north through Medina, there are few restaurants—mainly diners and pizza places—but check out the Shirt Factory Café, located in a 1876 building that actually was a shirt factory as well as a hotel. It serves paninis and soups, and is best for lunch.
Along 104, the scenery is really spectacular. The cobblestone houses are the stars, but there are also other stately examples of Victorian architecture, old barns, and magnificent trees. Primarily a New York State phenomenon from 1825–1860, cobblestone architecture was inspired by building techniques brought from New England and building materials that were created by the waves of prehistoric Lake Ontario. The small, round stones were constantly turning up in the soil that farmers tilled; it made sense to turn an annoyance into a free construction material—though thousands are needed for a house. It is the smallness of the stones and the intricate patterns and textures they create that make these houses so striking. There are hundreds of cobblestone structures in Orleans, Wayne, Monroe, and Ontario counties, with some in Niagara and Erie as well.
A haunted hospital and the mighty Zoar
A similar combination of vintage architecture and natural beauty can be enjoyed by driving due south. You can go as far as you like—Eden, Gowanda, or even Jamestown—but the distance is less important than the stops. For this trip, you can drive south on route 5, then get on 75 to route 62/39, or you can take the 90W and get off on 75 to 62/39. Either route takes you through Hamburg, Eden, Collins, Gowanda, and beyond.
We’ve often written about the beauties of Eden, so suffice it to say that it is an enjoyable place to visit even if you ignore the kazoo museum and the annual corn festival. Great places to stop are its farm markets—both seasonal roadside stands and permanent businesses, such as Agle’s or Braymiller. There are restaurants and roadside stands all along 62, but the best bet may be the Water Valley Inn, right outside Hamburg. An even better idea might be to bring a picnic lunch.
Intriguingly, just southeast of Eden is the underdeveloped Franklin Gulf County Park, which can be reached by taking a left on Sandrock. This would be a great place for a short hike before continuing on, or, if you want a less obscure spot for a walk or picnic, Marion Fricano Town Park is right off 62 in North Collins. Or you can save your energy for the Zoar Valley trails.
The village of Gowanda is truly picturesque, surrounded by rolling hills (in fact, its name means just that in Iroquoian). This is big biker country, and depending on your taste you may want to either (1) attend or (2) avoid the big Hollywood Happening the first weekend in June. (Don’t let the name fool you; this used to be called the Harley Happening.)
Gowanda is perhaps best known as the closest town to the magnificent Zoar Valley gorge, which is most safely explored during the gentle summer months, where a walk through the Valentine Flats is a great way to enjoy the scenery without too much climbing. All Buffalonians owe themselves at least one Zoar Valley hike, but be careful. It is a truly wild place, with dangerous cliffs.
While you would take a left on Buffalo Road in the center of the village to get to Zoar, a right-hand turn leads you to one of Western New York’s strangest sights: the isolated, abandoned J. N. Adams Hospital in Perrysburg. Surrounded by forest, this is located right off 39, with a left on Airview or 58 (depending on which side of this large complex you want to see). The mammoth remains of this once-beautiful tubercular sanatorium (built in 1912 by John Coxhead) must now be viewed through a high chain-link fence, but the imposing buildings, with their verandas and decorative columns, are still worth a look. They will not be around for much longer.
Elizabeth Licata almost drowned once rafting in the Zoar, and recommends exploration only when the Cattaraugus is slow and shallow.
SUBSCRIBE NOW
Back to the Table of Contents
Back to Top
|
|
|
